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NOTE
I'm
very much fascinated by the suggestion of the "Iconic Piece," and in no doubt I'm referring to those pieces
that you buy today and will no doubt become "thee piece," of tomorrow. The timeless piece, one that you
will cherish and hold dear for many a season to come, one of course that will transcend the holds of time, surpassing trend
after trend.
For Spring/Summer designers went back, revisiting
and reconstructing that iconic piece, so much so, was its importance that Prada, McQueen and Lanvin all took their turn to
present their interpretation of this.
Spring/Summer 2010
was in a way about stripping the excess, which was once necessary to make it through tough times, leaving us
with, what we'd like to call the bare necessities.
What is sometimes described as the throw away culture is
one not supported or condoned in any shape or form here, designers wanted to give back to their loyal customer, thanking them
almost, for their support, of course.
Lets revel at this notion, appreciating the sentiment, while we bask in the
full glory of the, "Iconic Piece."
MERVYN
BORIWONDO
EDITOR IN CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS
DIMITRIS THEOCHARIS
Age: 32
Origin: Greek
/American
Based: London
How do you describe your work: Photographic.
Muse: The Queen- Elizabeth II Hobbies: Food Fighting and Butterfly hunting
Contributed
to: From British Vogue to Hysteria
ROKAS RACH
Age: 20
Origin: Lithuanian Based: London How do you describe your work:
A minimalistic visual approach to stimulate emotional response from the viewer. Combining the exploration of form,
shape and texture, it's a search for sensitive and subtle aesthetics. Muse: Vilhelm Hammershoi, Raf Simons, Nicolas
Ghesquiere, David Lynch, Zilvinas Kempinas Hobbies: music, travel Contributed to: Ribbed Magazine, Fault Magazine Blog
IAN COLE Age: 37
Origin: British
Based:
London
How do you describe your work: Vintage, sometimes cinematic, fresh, usually tells a story
Muse: Yet to find
one
Hobbies: Music
Contributed to: Guapo magazine, vanity teen, status magazine, refresh
SCOTT WEBSTER
Age: 24
Origin: British
Based: London
How do you describe your work: Forever
changing and evolving
Muse: I don't have one... I used to...
her name was Svetlana but she moved
Hobbies: Collecting caps/glass
Contributed to: Supersuper,
War, Buck
CHARLES ADESANYA
Age: 25
Origin: British/Nigerian Based: London How do you describe your
work: Polished, Expensive and beyond chic. Muse: Fashion & Film Hobbies: Driving in my
new car, visiting art galleries, eating at beautiful restaurants and listening to disco music. Contributed to: i-D,
Wound, Evening Standard, Upstreet, Palladium, theones2watch.com, Volt.
ED THOMAS
Age: 34
Origin: British
Based: Bermondsey Street
How do you describe your work: TV Producer/Director
and Fashion Writer
Muse: Currently my girlfriend
Hobbies: Obsessed with anything in design especially fashion and
architecture
Contributed to: I write for my own blog: http://manaboutworld.blogspot.com/ , for Craft Business and Fashion Music Style print magazines and http://bitchingandjunkfood.com/
REEME IDRIS
Age: 27 Origin: Arab/Irish Based: East London How do you describe your
work: Communicating fashion in every way I can possibly think of? Muse: London Hobbies: Drinking tea & enjoying knee socks whilst reading (anything)
HYSTERIA MAGAZINE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
MERVYN BORIWONDO
FASHION FEATURES EDITOR
JOSEPH
JOHNSON
CONTIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
DIMITRIS THEOCHARIS
ROKAS RACH
SCOTT WEBSTER
IAN COLE
CONTRIBUTING STYLIST
CHARLES ADESANYA
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
ED THOMAS
REEME IDRIS
CONI LONGDEN
HYSTERIA MAGAZINE
COPYRIGHT © 2010
THANKS TO
ELLIE, JASMINE, KRISTINA, LUCY, AMELIA, IVAN, ASHLEY, STEPAHNIE,
MIHO, KEREMI, ADAM, ROB, CHERRY, ANNETTE, BRYONY.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE
REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR PART WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHER. THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN THE MAGAZINE ARE THOSE OF THE CONTRIBUTORS
& ARE NOT NECESSARILY SHARED BY THE MAGAZINE. THE MAGAZINE ACCEPTS NO LIABILITY FOR LOSS OR DAMAGE OF MANUSCRIPTS, ARTWORK,
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AND TRANSPARENCIES.
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DAVID KOMA
TEXT
BY REEME IDRIS
Winner of the 2009 Harrods
Design Award, following in the footsteps of the likes of Christopher Kane, his collection then focused on a skin-tight silhouette,
in flesh-tone and black, embellished with metallic chain details, Koma has taken strides since his MA graduation that same
year from Central Saint Martins. Speaking in a recent interview
with Hilary Alexander, "Metals, tubes and glass are used to translate my feelings... to create some new textures".
With a design ethos ‘Everything comes from the great book of nature', David refers to geometric shapes found in
organic and architectural structures as well as Minimal Art inspired forms.
The 25 year old designer who grew up in St Petersburg before moving to London, has Stateside icons such as Megan
Fox and Lady Gaga to thank for turning the heat up on his structured, body conscious pieces, not long after which Beyonce
adorned a commissioned piece from his newly found Clerkenwell studios to wear for her MTV Europe Music Awards appearance in
Berlin. This wasn't before however Cheryl Cole's styling team scooped up a similar sexy, ‘industrial chic'
design from the South Molton Street Browns Focus.
Koma
continued to explore his concept of the powerful, sexually-confident woman with his spring/summer 2010 collection, keeping
true to his ethos of "sculptural shapes, heavy embellishment and a perfect fit." which was shown during London Fashion
Week in September and won the Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘Merit Award'. Speaking to Dazedigital.com, Koma references
his preference for natural fabrics such as wool, leather, satin and silk to help maintain that strong silhouette, influenced
by Spanish Catalan architect, Antonio Gaudi and the arts and crafts themes of the Modernist Style of art nouveau. Not at all
bad for a boy who grew up designing for his Barbie doll, ‘10' being the number Koma states as his lucky numeric,
we look forward to seeing what this year does indeed bring for the talented young designer.
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MARY KATRANTZOU TEXT BY REEME IDRIS
‘Blown glass on acid' is how Katrantzou describes
the mood of her S/S 2010 collection. The designer, whose prints are inspired by icons of luxury, received cheers from the
crowd as her first look went down the runway during September's London Fashion Week.
Greek born, having completed a BA in Textile Design at Central Saint Martins and going on to graduate with a distinction
in her MA Fashion from the same institution, the designer has made her mark with bold and graphic prints, the latest having
a disco feel thrown in the mix. ‘Every season is linked back to art/design, or the object of the craft itself.
First it was the oversized jewellery and the perfume bottles and now it was blown glass. SS10 was similar in its thematic
approach to past collections but the prints were more abstracted, it was more about the colour and the energy of the prints.' Not satisfied with just the illusion of giant neckpieces in her AW08 show, Katrantzou
ventured forth to the realm of jewellery which she continues to produce pieces for up until her latest collection.
Working under Sophia Kokosalaki and selling samples to Bill
Blass has armed the designer with the kind of insight and the bravery to turn concepts such as the use of the female form
in perfume bottle design on its head, instead letting the refractive quality of glass inspire her.
When asked what her key piece from S/S 10 would be Katrantzou replies ‘I
think it's a combination of the Fan dress and the Paradiso dress. Paradiso is a simple cap sleeve silk dress with a graphic
print that's very representative of the blown glass theme. The Fan dress follows the lines of a fan and although quite
literal I think it also embraces the theme of freeform blown glass. It's just a bit more daring.'
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HOLLY FULTON TEXT BY REEME IDRIS
Scottish born Womenswear
designer Holly Fulton, graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art in 2007, débuting her first independent
collection two years ago and is clearly relishing in the creative power and independence that establishing her own label has
given her. ‘I confess I've been selfish since I started showing on my own, I've done what I like and I feel
pretty lucky that other people seem to like it too'.
Her selfishness has paid off and Fulton has enjoyed critical acclaim for her innovative yet chic take on modern classics.
Her latest collection is a potent cocktail of graphic prints and sharp silhouettes, inspired by a psychedelic New York and
Art Deco architecture. ‘I never start out with a specific plan in mind; I just let the collection take its own course
once I get started.
I like strong graphic line, that is what attracts me to research sources'. Holly's
interpretation of a sixties Big Apple has caught the attention of influential New York fashionista Patricia Field, Fulton's
work is now joining the likes of Chanel and Halston on the set of Sex and the City 2. Earning such a coveted position
is likely to not only raise Holly's profile in the States but could also lead to more exciting collaborations in the future.
‘I can't wait to do more in the US, I had a lot of interest from there after my last show and it is my aim for 2010
- to get over there and do some business'. With the seal of approval from the glitterati of New York, Holly Fulton is
surely destined for fashion greatness in 2010.
SPRING/SUMMER 2010 TEXT BY ED THOMAS 2010 will be the year when things soften up. As
hopes of a rebirth for the economy or at least boredom with revelling in the gloom of the recession creep in, warmer colours,
softer shapes and above all an overriding sense of lightness and translucency will take over. In womenswear
this lightness played itself out on the catwalks from Chanel in Paris to Louise Gray in London via Marios Shwab and Fendi
in an array of chiffon and organza. In menswear this search for the sheer also reared it's silky smooth head, expressed
through the nylons of Tim Soar, the ultra thin Indian khadi-like cotton shirts of Dior Homme and Calvin Klein and, more predictably,
the paper-fine jerseys of Rick Owens. One things for sure: this year lightness is a universal obsession. Perhaps
unsurprising, as it works in such synergy with the trend for transparency, is a rediscovery of exposed underwear for women.
We saw boudoir-wear from Dior and lace at Preen and Galliano. Meanwhile, with the forties feeling their presence felt in various
places, Hussein Chalayan condensed his appreciation of the period into one single trope: the pointed bra poking through everything
from flowing dresses to the jackets of trouser suits. It was also exciting to see years of dark gothic hues finally
giving way to a consensus of the benefits of some serious colour. Apart from the climax of the digital print trend best shown
by Brit based Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou and Erdem, there were mirrored/butterfly style prints at Alexander McQueen and
tie dyes plucked from the streets by Proenza Shouler. But I was more interested by the cues on the runway at Westwood
Gold label and Galliano mens and womenswear. Here rich colours and a confident combination of textures and patterns reminded
me of what we've been missing with our marriage to gothic and looked romantic enough to lure us into a new love affair
with nouveau-vintage. This time vintage is about fabrics with a reclaimed DIY look: with Westwood seemingly having raided
her curtains and Christopher Kane his table cloths. Walking around the showrooms of Paris I saw more examples of this filtered
down to international labels like Hong Kong's Hidy N G and London's Bolongaro Trevor. Even gothic stalwarts
like Gareth Pugh softened things down and warmed things up showing that there is life after Armageddon. But for those of you
who've developed a deep dependency on your wardrobe of dark layers, don't call your fashion therapist just yet. Superstar
designers Christophe Decarnin at Balmain and Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy both offered more interpretations of dark earthbound
looks. And if their collections are half as influential as recent seasons you can bet we'll see every high street chain
in the land serving up their own knock-offs before the daffodils have given us hope of a Spring recovery.
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GARETH PUGH
TEXT BY ED THOMAS
After years spent making a name for
himself as a creator of highly theatrical, sometimes unwearable designs, Gareth Pugh surprised many onlookers by offering
a subtle collection of shades of grey for SS10. Was this a young designer arriving at maturity or a sign that Britain's
hottest young designer was running out of steam? We thought it was time to take a stock check on the dark knight of UK fashion...
Living off modest grants and the support of private patrons for years after graduation from St Martin's, Gareth Pugh
was for so long the big 'will he/won't he make it?' story of British fashion. Having shown through various programmes
like New Gen and On/Off at London Fashion Week, he got his next big break by winning the Paris Fashion Week's Andam award
in 2008. The €150,000 award took him to the French fashion week for the first time that September where he's stayed
ever since and has finally flourished. Under the wing of Rick Owens and his business manager-wife Michele Lamy, Gareth has
now transformed his experimental designs into a marketable brand selling at a cool selection of stores in Europe and
around the world.
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In January 2009 he grabbed the international fashion headlines when
he launched menswear with his own show at Paris Men's Fashion Week. This was followed by a combined men's and womenswear
catwalk show last season. For a designer long-associated with a blurring of the gender gap, turning women into cold androids
and men into cloak-covered androgynous creatures, showing the two collections together offers Pugh an interesting opportunity
to further experiment with the liminal areas of gender in fashion. The combined collection also saves on out-goings until
Pugh and Co see what orders come in from the buyers. After all, it's not long ago since Hussein Chalayan, who's earlier
difficult career seemed to foreshadow Pugh's with eery accuracy, made the decision to ditch his menswear altogether. It'll
be interesting to see if Pugh continues to show a combined collection in future seasons, particularly if the wider trend for
androgynous designs diminishes.
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So, it's SS10 and Pugh's offering something new: he's
put his trademark black and white outfits in the washing machine together and they've come out all grey. The looks are
also more wearable, less costume and made from fabrics you might expect from a designer reaching his maturity: chiffon, crepe
and lamb's leather. His older fans say this is his coming-of-age, his detractors complain he's sold out. But perhaps
the fact that this all feels safer than his collections did a few years ago is simply testament to the fact that Gareth was
one of the key catalysts in sea of gothic and post apocalyptic styles we've been seeing for the last few seasons. His
outfits do indeed look more familiar now, but that's largely due to other less imaginative designers having studied and
copied so much of his style in recent years. At 26 years old, Gareth already commands more attention every season than many
of the biggest hitters do in their 40s. Proof, then, that he has graduated from the great hope of the noughties London fashion
scene to a soon-to-be member of that elite club of British designers of genuine international statue.
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J W ANDERSON
J W Anderson is certainly one
of our favourite menswear designers in London at the moment, and we simply adore his Spring/Summer 2010 collection, from
the cuffs to the chest plates, oh and not to forget the tribal grass skirts. We thought we'd grab Jonathan from his busy
schedule to answer our questions.
What's your favourite
piece from your Spring/Summer 10 collection?
The Bag Trousers, Body con top and
Tribal jewelry (Look 5)
What or who
inspires you at the moment?
Friends, Family, Dostoevsky and Joyce.
And love.
Who is your favourite designer
at the moment?
Stefano Pilati.
What are you listening to at the moment?
Phillip
Glass
What's your favourite item
in your wardrobe at the moment?
Grey Melange Sweater
Who was your favourite style
icon when you were growing up?
James Dean.
Do you have any hobbies? What are they?
Lovers. Romance.
If you weren't a designer what would you be doing instead?
I'd
be a vet
Favourite film?
Its a toss up between Sunset Boulevard and Rosemary's Baby.
What was the first album you bought when you were younger?
The first album i ever bought was the Burning Heart CD, a compilation of well burning
hearts.
Who were your heroes or heroines
growing up?
I think my parents were my Heroes, and my Grandfather.
What one thing cant you live without?
Expresso. Double.
Favourite TV show?
Nighty Night.
In one word how would you describe the J W Anderson
Man?
Adventurer.
If you had a super power for the day, what would it be?
I would like to be able to fly.
Who was your favourite pin up growing up?
Again
James Dean.
Favourite holiday destination?
Ireland
Favourite scent?
The Burning wood Diptic
Candle
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©2009 HYSTERIA MAGAZINE All rights reserved.
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